Stitch-finger for shell-stitch machines.



W. H. CARTER.

STITCH FINGER FOR SHELL STITCH MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. I6, 1912.

1,172,670. Patented Feb. 22,1916.

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W. H. CARTER.

STITCH FINGER FOR SHELL STITCH MACHINES.

AFPUCATION FILED MAR.16.19I2.,

1,172,670. Patented Feb. 22, 1916.

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"UNIT D STATES PATENT OFFICE. WILLIAM H. CARTER,.O1? NEEnHAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIeNon 510 THE WILLIAM CARTER COMPANY, or NEEDHAM HEIGHTS, MAss-Acr Usn'rTsncoRPo- RATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

STITCH-FINGER FOR sIInLL-srITcH MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent. I f Patented Feb, 22,1916,

Application filed March-16,1912. Serial No. 684,146.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM H. CARTER,

a citizen of the United States, and a resident. ofNeedham Heights, in the county of Nor-' folk and State of Massachusetts, have in; vented an Improvement in Stitch-Fingers for Shell-Stitch Machines,'of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification,

forming mechanism embodying my inventron; Fig. :2 1s a simllar view but represent-' f ing the parts differently positioned; Fig. 3 is a planview of a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is an edge View of theipreferred shape of forming finger about which the loops or stitches are formed; Fig. 5 is a plan' view thereof; 'Fig. 6 is a plan view of one end of a somewhat modified shape of forming finger; and Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic representation indicating the preferred mode of laying the loops or stitches of the border.

Ornamental borders for knitted or otherfabrics, such as under-garments, are well known. The patents; to Merrow, No. 413,07 7, October 15,1889, and No. 414,238, November 5, 1889, clearly disclose the same. The said borders are therein represented as, composed of a series of clusters or shells, each consisting of a series'of radiating or generally fanshaped stitches formed by an eye pointed machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle, and a hook for a supplemental thread. The clusters or shells are formed in seriatim, and the main and supplemental threads thereof are preferably continuous throughout the border. The stitches or loops forming the ribs of the clusters or shells shown in said Merrow patents are laid along substantially true radiallines and extend infan shape both' -to the rightand to the leftjof .a. median line drawn. from the center vof-the cluster to the edge of-the fabric at right angles tosaid edge,

The object of my inventionis to produce 1 a machine madeshell'or cluster wherein the stitches or loops all tend in the same, general direction, that .is, toward the right or toward the left as the observer lookstoward are so laid that the impression gainedby theobserveris thatof a series ofloops-ex: tending to the right or to the left as stated.

1 the fabric; or wherein the threads or loops In carrying out myinvention I preferably I also supply an increased amount of thread,

in the formationiof theloops or stitches, so that the shell instead of being substantially flat as heretofore, is substantially raised from the surface of the fabric or given a puffed appearance. 7 In carrying out my invention I preferably employ a crochet or over-seaming machine of the general type disclosed in the patent to Merrow No. 428,508, May 20, 1890, al-

though it is obvious that any suitable means I may be employed for producing the border) referred to. The mechanism preferably employed includes an eye pointed sewing machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle, and a hook.

Referring more particularly to thedrawings, the frame of the machine is indicated at 1, the eye pointed sewing machine needle herein represented as vertically reciprocable is indicated at 2, the crochet hook or=knit-' ting needle at 3 andthe feeding hook for the supplemental thread at 4. ,These maybe positioned as indicated in the said Merrow patents and operated as therein disclosed or in any other suitable: manner. The presser supplemental thread feeding foot is indicated at 5 and is preferably spring pressed against the upper face of the fabric and is provided with the customary recess or opening for the passage of the needle 2. The-fabric to which the 'orna mental border is to be applied is introduced at the front of the machine or from the right viewing Figfil, and is passed in a step by step manner beneath the presser foot 5, the i rated or saw too'thedge 7, the teeth whereof are inclined to the leIt as indicated in Fig.

1, and an extension 8 having a pin 9 received m a slot 10 of a feed arm 11 pivoted at 12 j upon the framing of the machine. -Heretofore so far as I am aware, the fabric has been fed in a step by step mannerin one direction only, beneath the presser foot, each cluster or shell being formed whenthefabric is at rest. In accordance with'my invention, however, I impart a stepjby step forward feeding movement to the fabric and also a comparatively slight rearward movement following each forward movement. This adjunctive rearward movement is for the purpose of positioning the stitches of the shells or clusters in the manner already indicated. It is evident that any suitable means may be employed to this end. Preferably, ho\vever,-I employ a gear wheel 13 fast upon the shaft ll and a pinion 15 fast upon a shaft 16 and having thereon an e'c 'centric'l? receiving an eccentric strap 18 of an arm 19 having a slotted-pivotal connection 20 with the feed arm 11'. In this manner, the feed arm, and consequently thefeed slide 6, are reciprocated in both directions, The extent of each forward feeding movement is in this embodiment of my invention materially in excess of the extent of the adjunctive or rearward feeding movement.

Upon a face of the gear 13' I suitably secure or form a cam 21 tounder-ride and elevate periodically the roll '22 loose upon a lever pivoted at 23' upon the framing of the machine. The free end of the feed slide 6 rests uponthe said roll 22 and the periodicelevation of said roll therefore pe riodically elevates the feed slide and simultaneously a feeding movement is imparted thereto by the feed arm 11. Withinthe scope of my invention one or more cams 21 may be employed;

In order to effect the rearward feed of the fabric I provide the gear 13 with a'cam having athin edge or portion 25, Which in the rotation of the gear 13 is periodically brought beneath the roller 22 and thereby momentarily elevates the same to effect the rearward feeding of the fabric. The gear 13 is in thisembodiment of my invention driven in the direction of the arrow adjacent thereto in Fig. 1 and the relation of the vated into feeding relation to the fabric moves the same by means of its teeth 7 a suitable distance forwarder to the left view-r ing Fig. 1., The continued rotation of the gear 13 brings the cam 24 beneath the roller 22, thereby a ain to elevate the feed slide 6. When the feed slide .6 is momentarily elevated by the cam 2d the eccentric 17 has now reached such anposition that it imparts. a rearward movement or movement to the right. tothe feed slide 6. Therefore, the momentary engagement of the edge 25'of the cam 2-52 effects a sllght rearward move ment of the fabric. As clearly indicated in F igs. 1, 52 and ".=the feed slide 6 is also provided withfabric engaging saw teeth 7 op-- positely inclined with respect to the teeth :7, to effectthe rearward feeding movement of theofabrio- Therefore the camsQL'Q l 'act' upon the feed slide respectively synchronously with the opposed feeding movements of the eccentric-17.

The shell or cluster formed by the herein disclosed mechanism may obviously'have any suitable or desired number of stitches or loops. By an'adjustment of the cams cooperating with the feed slide or by the employment of'additional cams, I may, for eX- ample; form clusters of four, s12: oreight stitches or morer That form of myinven tion herein represented is adapted to prioduce ornamental borders, each shell whereof is composed of eight stitches. If desired, I may provide the edge of the fabric with a double row of shells. In such event, however, the outer-overlying row of shells is fashioned as herein described. j

At the front of the machine and inthe line of feed of the fabric provide a preferably removable finger 26, shown in detail in F igs. l and 5, the edge 27 of which acts carried by the-sewing needle and a sup-- plemental thread 30 fed by the hooker; guide 4:. I alsoprovide the said crochet hookcor sewing machi -eneed e 3, to which is imparted a reciprocatorymovement above and then beneath the face of the fabric and in substantial parallelism therewith. The needles 2, 8 may be operatedin any'suita'blemanner to impart the desired movements; thereto. w 7

It will be understood that in theformation of the shell or cluster, each stitch is made up of two lengths or portions of. thread constituting a bight or loop; In Fig.1 7 the mainthread is represented as extends ing. from the point 31 of'the fabric constitutesa center fromavhich certain of the stitches of the shell radiate. The hook of the knitting needle 3 is positioned to the left of both threads, and in the continued operation draws them to the right and positions them in the formation of the shell.

The needle 3 is thenmoved to; the leftbeJ neath the fabric to the lower face-thereof, thereby completing one cycle of movement and positioning, a single stitch of the shell been formed along ornear edge, the fab-j ric is run. again through the machine. and the outer series of'clustersiis. formed in or upon the inner series or between itlandqthe ex-v trem'eedge and extends outward therefrom in the manner hereinldescribed.

Heretofore in the formation ofborders composed of a series of shells or clusters, the stitches as laid or during the formation of each shell or cluster slide or are forced by succeeding stitches in the direction of the forward feed of the fabric. Therefore, and assuming the cluster to be formed of eight stitches, it is obvious that the first three or four stitches extend in a forward direction or generally in the direction inwhich the fabric is fed; that is, toward the ,left viewing Fig. 1. The final stitches of the' shell are eX- tended in a direction opposite to the forward feed of the fabric, because the sewing machine needle which introduces themain sewing thread and the knitting needle do not participate in the forward 7 feeding movement of the fabric, and hence tendto drawthe last formed stitches or loops of the shell rearwardly, or so that they radiate toward the right instead of toward the left and in the manner. indicated in the Mei-row patents, No. 413,077 and No. 414,233. Intermediate stitches or loops of the cluster extend directly outward so that a shaped effect is produced,

In carrying out my invention and asSu m ing that the shell or cluster is composed of eight stitches, a-certain number of stitches, say threeare laid when the fabric is stationary, that is, after it has been moved into a new position following the formation of the preceding shell or cluster. 'Thereupon the fabric-is moved slightly to the rear and the remaining stitches of the cluster are laid or positioned.

, It will be noted that the edge 32 0f. the

general fanfinger 26, which is the edge soverlyingthe fabric and adjacent the sewing machine needle 2, is substantially straight and. is of the full thicknessof the finger, p a

The forward portion of the finger is narrowed as indicat'edin Fig 5 and tapers:

" quite abruptly fromthe outer edge 33 to the inner edge 32 and terminates in a relatively narrow stitch retaining hook 28 having'its point bent away from the edge-32, said hook 28 preferably lying wholly in theplane of the body of the finger 26. The taperingportion 27 of the forming finger is not straight,

' but is preferably reversely curved asindi cated and is provided with a protruding stitch anchoring shoulder 34, here shown; as

a substantial swell. The upper face ofthe.

finger. is preferablybeveled or tapered off slightly to the outer. edge, so that the said i finger will not ,be interfered with by. the other portions of the mechanism, and the narrowed'end of the finger ispreferably made as thin as possible, as indicated in Fig.

4, so as to give some room for-the stitches constitut ng the clusters or shells, Moreover, the finger is relatively broaderjthan' those' heretofore employechin order to compel an increased length of-thread to enter into each of the stitches so that the com pleted shell or clusteris more puffy or elevatedthan thoseheretofore formed by machines, and does-not liefiator compressed against the face of the fabric 111 a manner characteristic of former machine made shells or clusters ofornamental borders.

InFig, 6, I have illustrated aslightly modified shape of forming finger- 35 having a tapered end terminating in a relatively narrow portion 36.;and also having a stitch anchoringswell or shoulder 37. q

Within-the scope? of my invention, the

forming finger may be shaped as shown in Figs. 5 or 6,.or other formsthereof may be employed, Preferably, however, Iemploy that shape ;of forming finger represented in Fig.;5, inasmuchas the hook 28 prevents the] stitches from slipping off the end; of the-1 forming fingerlu'ntilfthe cluster or shell is completed. Moreover by hendino point '28;

asindicated, I avoid all danger o f'the penetration by the point of the stitches pertaining to the adjacent shellor'cluster as well the. forming finger on the return 'orireverse feeding movement of the fabric. 1 V Referring to the form of forming fingers as insuring the retention of the stitches upon r shown in both Figs. 5 and 6, it will be noted that the said outer edge of each finger at its forward end has a portion extending forwardly throughout and tape'ringtothe said inner edge, and having thereon an outright.

wardly extending stitch anchoring shoulder merging at both ends into said forwardly extending portion, said shoulders being in dicated respectively at 34 and 37 in Figs. 5

. and 6;

As the mechanism herein represented is adjusted, the first fewstitches of each shell and preferably the first three stitches are laid when the fabric has been fed forward that the succeeding threads of the shell rae diate or extend from -a new center from which said three stitches were laid. Preferably the first threads of those stitches laid from the second center partially overlie one or more of the threads laid from the first center, so that even though one or more of the 'threads'laid from the first center do radiate very slightly to the left; they are partially concealed by the overlying threads. Practically, however, the first laid threads 1 do not radiate to the left, and the whole.

general eifectof ithe threads or stitches of the shell is an inclination or curl toward the I do not herein claim the general mechanism for reversely feeding the'fabric, inasmuch as such invention is claimed in my Patent No. 1,020,944, but I do herein claim as an article of manufacture the described stitch forming finger, and also that form of finger shown in Figs. 4 and 5 in conjunction with the other parts of the mechanism. 7

Having, thus described one illustrative embodiment of my invention, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptivesense and not for purposes of limitation,-the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims. Claims.

1. A forming finger adapted to receive and form permanently open'loops of a shell or cluster border fabric consistingof a relatively broad, elongated. plate held in fixed position and having its inner and outer edges in substantial parallelism throughout the major portion of its length, said finger being constructed and arranged to receive said open loops thereabout, said outer edge at its forward end having a portion extend-v ingforwardly throughout and tapering to said inner edge and having thereon an outwardly extending stitch-anchoring shoulder merging at both ends into said forwardly extending portion, said tapering portion being of sufiicient :length to receive tliere-' Thereupon the fabric isabout and to support a plurality 'of open loops constitutingya shell or clustergof a border fabric. V

2. A forming. finger constructed and ar:

ranged to receive and form permanently.

open loops of a shell or cluster borderfabric consisting ofa relativelybroad, elon.-

gated plate having the outer .edgethereof at its forward end provided with a portion extending forwardly throughout and tapering. to theinneredgej thereof and. having thereon an outwardly extending stitchanclioring shoulder, merging at both ends into said forwardly extending -portion,'said. ta-

pering portion being of sufllcient length to receive thereabout: and tosupport a plurality. of open loops constituting a shell or.

cluster of a border fabric.

3..A forming finger constructed and. an

ranged" to receive and. form permanently openloops of ashell oi' cluster border fab ric consisting of'a relatively broad, elon-" gated plate having its inner and outer edges in substantial parallelism throughout the major portion of :its length, said outer edge at its forward end having a taperingpon; tion ex'tending forwardly throughout to said.

inner edge and there terminating ina relatively narrow point bent away flOIllgtld innei-.eclge, said tapering portion having.

an outwardly extending stitchi anchoring shoulder merging atboth ends into said forwardly extending portion. and being of 'suffi cient length to receive thereabout and to support a plurality of open loops constituting a shell or clusterof a border fabric.

4.; Shell or cluster border-forming 'mech anism forfa-brics "comprising in combina: tion, a sewing needle, a crochet hook, means for imparting 1 movement thereto, .a fixed forming finger havingits forward end'tae pered and. terminating in a relatively' narrow, stitchl-retaininghook, the tapered portion of said finger being of sufficient length to receive thereabout .andto support'a plurality of open loops constituting. a shell or cluster of a border fabric, said parts, constie tuting stitchsforming means for forming stitches in series, meansto: cause a relative advance of theifa'bric with respect toisaid stitch-forming means, and means to cause-a;

relative retrogression of said fabric-between:

the formation and positioning of the first and the last ofsaid series of stitches.

5. Shell or cluster border-forming mecl1-. anism for fabrics comprising in combina-.

tion, a sewing needle, a crochet hook,.means for imparting movement thereto, afixed forming finger having, its forward end-tie. pei'ed andtermmating in a relat1vely=nar= row point,the tapered portion of said finger being of suflicient 1 length to receive thereabout and to support a plurality offlopen loops constitutinga shell or. cluster ofa border fabric, said parts ,constituting'stitch- 1,172,670 r a a forming means for forming stitches in se- In testimony whereof, I have signed my ries, means to cause a relative advance of name to this specification, in the presence of the fabric with respect to said. stitch-f0rm two subscribing Witnesses.

ing means, and means to cause a relative j WILLIAM I-LCARTER- 5 retrogression of said fabric between the Witnesses:

formation and positioning of the first and RALPH S. MAoGoWN,

' the last of said series of stitches. PRESTON MITCHELL.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissionrof Patents,

- Washington, I). G. 

